Classes of Peptides - Signal Peptides Part One
Jul 17, 2016
Peptides are one of the biggest breakthroughs in the treatment of aging skin. They have been around for over 20 years but did not achieve real fame until they were proven to be more effective than the gold standard prescription Vitamin A in the treatment of photoaging.
There are 4 classes of peptides.
- Signal Peptides
- Neurotransmitter-inhibitor peptides
- Enzyme inhibitor peptides
- Carrier peptides
Our first class are Signal Peptides
Signal peptides stimulate the regeneration of the dermal matrix. Specifically they increase the production of collagen synthesis. This may be accomplished by stimulation and growth of different skin cells like human skin fibroblasts. Signal peptides can also increase elastin, proteoglycan, glycosaminoglycans, and fibronectin proliferation. By increasing matrix cell activities and consequently collagen production, the skin looks firmer and younger. These peptides also have the ability to decrease collagenase breakdown of existing collagen and improve the clinical appearance of the fine line and coarse wrinkles visible in both chronologically and photo aged skin.
Some signal peptides are also carrier peptides. Copper peptides are an example. Copper peptides promotes extra-large collagen aggregates degradation in scars, regular collagen synthesis in normal skin, elastin, proteoglycans, and glycosaminoglycans production, growth rate and migration of different cell types, and anti-inflammatory and antioxidant responses [1-3].
So what are peptides?
Peptides are short chains of amino acid sequences that have the ability to trigger cellular processes that stimulate collagen production.
Peptides evolved from research into wound healing and studies on growth stimulation of human skin fibroblasts. Wound healing studies on human keratinocyte cultures showed a stimulatory effect from topical application of peptides.
Amino acid chains, in specific lengths and sequences have been found to be stimulatory to human skin dermal fibroblast growth. In one study on elastin derived peptides, the sequence valine-glycine-valine-alanine-proline-glycine (VGVAPG) significantly stimulated human skin fibroblast proliferation.
A specific amino acid sequence, lysine-therine-therine-lysine-serine, found on type 1 procollagen has been implicated in feedback regulation of collagen synthesis resulting in increased production of extracellular matrix proteins. This particular pentapeptide has made the transition from research to practical application. It has been linked to a lipophylic fatty acid, palmitic acid to stabilize and improve delivery into the skin. These peptides if stabilized in cosmeceutical product and adequately delivered into the dermis where these processes occur, may mimic basic stimulatory and regulatory steps for collagen and extracellular matrix production, resulting in improvement of aged skin clinically.
Our next class of peptides we will go into will be Neurotransmitter peptides which have now also been shown to have more benefits than originally thought.
About the Author
Jacine Greenwood is an internationally recognised educator who is known within the industry for her up to date knowledge and her ability to deliver training in an easy to understand method.
Jacine holds 6 Diplomas and a Bachelor of Nursing and her knowledge is well respected by her peers. With over 19 years experience in the industry and a background of cosmetic formulation, Jacine has an immense knowledge of current trends in research and new developments in the industry.
Jacine has been continually educating herself in all aspects of skin function and cosmetic chemistry for the past 21 years. Jacine’s knowledge is current and has a vast knowledge of the active ingredients that are being released onto the market.
References:
Simeon A, Wegrowski Y, Bontemps Y, Maquart FX. Expression of glycosaminoglycans and small proteoglycans in wounds: modulation by the tripeptide-copper complex glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-Cu (2 +). J Invest Dermatol. 2000;115:962–968.
Simeon A, Emonard H, Hornebeck W, Maquart FX. The tripeptide- copper complex glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-Cu2 + stimulates matrix metalloproteinase-2 expression by fibroblast cultures. Life Sci. 2000;67:2257–2265.
Buffoni F, Pino R, Dal Pozzo A. Effect of tripeptide-copper com- plexes on the process of skin wound healing and on cultured fibro- blasts. Arch Int Pharmacodyn Ther. 1995;330:345–360.
Wegrowski Y, Maquart FX, Borel JP. Stimulation of sulfated glycos- aminoglycan synthesis by the tripeptide-copper complex glycyl-L- histidyl-L-lysine-Cu2 +. Life Sci. 1992;51:1049–1056.
Maquart FX, Pickart L, Laurent M, Gillery P, Monboisse JC, Borel JP. Stimulation of collagen synthesis in fibroblast cultures by the tripeptide-copper complex glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-Cu2 +. FEBS Lett. 1988;238:343–346.
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