Protecting Your Skin During A Polar Vortex - Oils Are Not The Answer!

We came across an article today claiming that your moisturiser use during severe cold weather could cause and be responsible for broken capillaries or couperouse.

So the claim comes from a celebrity facialist Joanna Czech.  She says "to avoid using water-based moisturizers in sub-zero weather like a Polar Vortex because the water in the formula can freeze in the pores and lead to broken capillaries, not to mention your skin won't get hydrated."

So first myth to be busted is there is no moisture in the air because it is cold.

If you google online the suggestion is that your skin dries out because the water freezes on your skin and pulls moisture out of the skin.

The first thing to note is that freezing temperature does not mean that there is no moisture content in the air.  We took screen shots tonight of the areas most affected by extreme temperatures below zero and the corresponding moisture and humidity content of  air in those regions.

Minneapolis even though the temperature was freezing still had a humidity of 87%.  North Dakota was similar with even colder temperatures of -7 degrees celcius, yet humidity of 77%.   So cold weather does not equate to no moisture in the air, and it is certainly not the reason your skin is drying out and screaming for help.

So what does happen during the extremes of cold?

Your skin has what is known as a lipid bilayer.  It is a layer of the skin the that is responsible for the water-proofing of the skin, as well as the skins ability to resist cold weather.

Normally it looks like the left side and is fluid and mobile.  The molecules are "fluid" and can move from one side to another and also are free to move within the structure.  This ability of the lipid bilayer is what prevents your skin from freezing and also allows it to fill in gaps and holes in the barrier function of the skin.

[caption id="attachment_8383" align="aligncenter" width="1222"] Fluid Membrane versus a Crystalline or Frozen membrane[/caption]

However when the temperature drops rapidly, the ability of the skin barrier to function properly becomes compromised.  Literally the skin freezes, and when it does tiny cracks form and the skin massively loses moisture.   The ability of the lipid bilayer to remain fluid is fully dependent on the cholesterol content of the skin as well as the fatty acids the lipid bilayer is made up from.

Cholesterol declines in the skin as we age, meaning that older skins struggle to maintain hydration normally, let alone in extreme cold.  The fatty acids that make up the lipid bilayer come from either diet or from the oils applied topically through skin care products.

In the article it was suggested to products that have a higher oil content, the philosophy being that oil traps water underneath it and is water proofing for the skin, however the majority of plant oils are not occlusive and only partially provide some relief.  The relief they provide also depends on their chemical composition and makeup.

All vegetable oils are composed of different portions of Oleic acid, Linoleic Acid, Stearic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Gamma Linoleic Acid and Eicosanpentoic Acid, just to name a few.

All oils have different freezing points.  You only have to look at coconut oil during the cold weather to see how it solidifies in colder climates.  Oils that are high in Oleic Acid freeze at 13 degrees celcius (55.4 degrees Fahrenheit), which means if you are using oils that are predominantly this composition then your skin is really going to struggle once the temperature starts to drop.

Linoleic Acid freezes at -7 degrees (19.4 degrees Fahrenheit), which means in normal cold temperatures it will suffice but in extreme conditions it still won't be enough.

Eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) is a fatty acid found in the flesh of cold-water fish, including mackerel, herring, tuna, halibut, salmon, cod liver, whale blubber, or seal blubber.   EPA is not found in vegetable oils, however if the right co-factors are present then plant oils high in omega 3 can be converted to EPA.  Plant oils that are high in Omega 3 also smell like fish.

EPA however freezes at -57 degrees centigrade (-72.4 Fahrenheit), making it perfect for extreme cold.  Historically if you look back to Eskimos and athletes performing feats of swimming in extreme cold water, they smothered themselves in whale or seal blubber.  It makes sense given it insulates the skin keeping heat in and also helps to keep the lipid bilayer fluid and stops it from freezing.

Other ingredients that prevent TEWL loss are Petrolatum, Silicones such as Dimethicone, Jojoba Esters, Acai Sterols, Pomegranate Sterols.  All of these ingredients have been shown to prevent trans-epidermal water loss  (TEWL), which keeps moisture in the skin.

Ingredients that keep the lipid bilayer fluid are cholesterol and fatty acids that are high in linoleic acid, linolenic and gamma linolenic acid.  Cholesterol in particular, has been shown to massively assist with fluidity of the lipid bilayer.  Animal sources include lanolin and C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol.  Plant sources include Shea Butter and Phytosterols.

So why could you possibly get more capillaries forming upon exposure to extreme cold?

Have you ever noticed what happens to a client who has Rosacea in cold weather?  Their skin flares up massively and the skin dilates and becomes flushed.  What we do know is that exposure to cold causes vasodilation of the capillaries of the skin.

The receptors in the skin that are responsible in particular are TRPA1 (Transient Receptor Potential Ankyrin subfamily), which is responsible for sensing extreme cold.

Extreme cold releases TRPA1 which releases neuropeptides, which cause vasodilation and the formation of Telangiectasias.  This is the primary reason that during cold weather you get capillaries forming, and it has nothing to do with your moisturiser.  It has everything to do with neuropeptides and the subsequent response in the skin.

In order to maintain hydration during extreme cold weather you need to prevent the lipid bilayer from freezing as well as prevent TEWL.   Ingredients that just prevent moisture loss alone, will not be adequate as it does not stop the lipid bilayer from freezing.  A combination of actives are required in order to keep hydration in the skin and to ensure the barrier remains healthy.

About the Author

Jacine Greenwood is an internationally recognised educator who is known within the industry for her up to date knowledge and her ability to deliver training in an easy to understand method.

Jacine is a Qualified Cosmetic Chemist and holds 5 Diplomas and a Bachelor of Nursing.   With over 25 years experience in the industry, Jacine has an immense knowledge of current trends in research and new developments in the industry.

Jacine has been continually educating herself in all aspects of skin function and cosmetic chemistry for the past 25 years.  Jacine’s knowledge is current and has a vast knowledge of the active ingredients that are being released onto the market.